Image of Dave Harasti, UW photographer extraordinaire diving on rebreather in Brisbane, 2005


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Diving Sydney

Australia’s largest city, Sydney was the home of the Sydney 2000 Olympic Games. Sydney diving offers a lot to the diver, with a large number of dive operators, and dive sites ranging from great shore dives to deep offshore reef and wreck dives.

For those interested in an easy shore dive, there are good sites with plenty to see at Shelly Beach and Fairlight (Manly area), Clifton Gardens (Balmoral), Camp Cove (Watson’s Bay), North Bondi (Bondi Beach), Gordon’s Bay (Clovelly), Bare Island (La Perouse), Inscription Point (Botany Bay), Oak Park (Cronulla) and Shiprock (Dolan’s Bay). More demanding shore dives include Shark Point (Clovelly) and Mahon Pool (Maroubra). With all shore dives, make sure you assess the conditions on the dive, and dive within your limits.

Some of my favourite boat dive sites include Barrens Hut, Osborne Shoals, Fish Reef, Marley Point and the Balcony off Cronulla, The Gap and Colours Reef off Sydney Harbour, and the Apartments, the Wall and Dee Why Wide, off Long Reef.

Sydney is home of many diveable shipwrecks, and to do them justice, I have set-up a separate Diving Sydney’s Wrecks page to discuss the wrecks.

Bare Island

At the end of Anzac Parade in the eastern Sydney suburb of La Perouse lies one of Sydney’s most popular shore diving locations - Bare Island. This area is home to at least 5 distinct dive sites that can be enjoyed time and again by the novice or experienced diver. Bare Island is a haven for underwater photographers, and can be a most enjoyable place to enjoy a day’s diving, coupled with a family picnic.

Bare Island is small island about 60m off the mainland, connected by a bridge. The site of a colonial era fort, the island was home to a significant portion of one of the Mission Impossible movies.

The 2 most popular dives in the area are around the walls of the island itself. Entry is from the rock platform on either the main land, or the island proper - pick the right entry point to suit the conditions on the day. The bridge connecting the mainland to the island is the natural delineation point for the 2 main dives - which are known as Bare Island East (Left) and Bare Island West (Right). Both are wonderful spots, and each a bit different from the other.

The eastern side drops quickly to 10m as you follow the island wall around. This is a good area for weedy sea dragons and a whole host of nudibranchs on the various rock formations. This is the area where I found a lovely pygmy pipehorse. This area also makes a great night dive.

The western side gets deeper - its easy to find 20m and beyond here. Around this side I can find a different variety of fishlife, and there is an area here where sea horses and blue devil fish are regularly found. Its also a great dive.

Another site worth a look is the wall along the mainland rockplatform on the eastern side. I usually do this at the end of a dive to the eastern side.

Another occasional dive is to swim the entire circumference of the island. You need to be keeping a reasonable pace and good on your air. I’ve only done this once, because its not really compatible with the meandering pace of a photo dive. It would make a good fun thing to do on a scooter.

Nearby are some other sites that are west of Bare Island, extending from the mainland. Well worth a look-see.

Barrens Hut

Located south of Jibbon Headland on the southern side of Port Hacking, Barrens Hut has to be one of the best dive sites in the Sydney area. With a large wall dropping from about 15m to around 27m, Barrens Hut attracts marine life in massive quantities, and with a variety that is hard to find. I would rate this as one of my absolute favourite dive sites in Sydney.

The distinctive feature of Barrens Hut is the wall, which includes a tunnel that cuts about 15m back into the wall, ending with a chimney that rises about 7m out into open water. At the top side there are some large rock falls with resident blue groper, and one of the most curious Bleekers devilfish I’ve met. Further north along the wall is a small cavern under a large rock, again with plenty to see. Following the wall around further you come to the split, a cutting in the rock face with a large collection of gorgonians and sponges.

Most of the times I’ve dived Barrens I’ve been blessed with clear waters, its location providing lots of opportunity to take advantages of ocean currents that sweep away the muck, and bring in its place clear, fresh water.

Equal to any dive I’ve done in Sydney, Barrens Hut is well worth the effort. If you want to dive Barrens, I suggest Sea Tamer II, one of the best charter boats I’ve come across (see Dive Operators).

The Balcony

Located south of Jibbon Point south of Cronulla on the coastline of the Royal National Park, the Balcony offers a lot to the diver wanting rich underwater terrain, swimthroughs, a small rock wall, and fish life. Situated close into the coastal cliffs, the Balcony has a maximum depth of about 20m, thus being appropriate to all levels of divers. Being close in to the cliffs, the Balcony can only be dived in the calmest of conditions, such as when the westerly winds are blowing.

The key feature of the Balcony is a large concave wall with a maximum depth of about 16m. In and around this area are lots of Port Jackson sharks, stingrays, schools of yellowtail and bullseye, a family of groper and several good swimthroughs. Further east, the Balcony deepens out, reaching a maximum depth of about 20m, with a small wall on the other side of a series of 5 or 6 swimthroughs. Follow this wall north or south to view lots of sponges.

Camp Cove

The next beach around from the famous Doyle's of Watsons Bay pub and seafood restaurant is a rather interesting spot called Camp Cove.  Famous for being the location where members of the colonising First Fleet camped for their first night in what has become Australia, Camp Cove is one of the more expensive beach areas in Sydney.

A protected bay inside Sydney Harbour, Camp Cove is popular as both training location, a standby dive site when all else fails and as a night dive.  In fact, I made my first two training dives in Camp Cove, and still enjoy getting back there when the opportunity raises itself.  I find it to be an excellent dusk and night dive, with a seriously easy entry and exit.

There are three areas commonly dived at Camp Cove - the Eastern End, the Western end and the middle reef.  The two ends are dives around the walls that make up the peninsulas, while the middle reef is a flat reef in between the former two.  For mine, the Eastern End is the most interesting most of the time.

At day time, Camp Cove is best suited to a training or refresher dive, or a standby if all else fails.  Visibility can be limited (5m is good), and there are many other great sites close by.

Its at dusk and night time when Camp Cove comes into its own. Its at this time that the site can be very interesting, and very productive for the photographer.  Sea horses, pipefish, octopus and squid make regular appearances.   It is a great muck dive, and we easily find ourselves spending over an hour on a dusk dive here.

The only cautions with this site involve parking (its hard to get in the day, and the car park is a little dark and isolated in the evening), boat traffic (recreational boaters love this spot) and fishermen off the point.  Its also best to avoid diving Camp Cove (along with many Sydney Harbour sites) after extensive rain - it may be a little polluted.

A great dive - enjoy! 

Fairlight

Fairlight is located on Sydney Harbour, one suburb back from Manly on the road from Sydney. The dive site itself is a very easy dive, but one that is very rewarding for those willing to take the time to look around and swim slowly. The main feature of the site is a low wall that runs parallel to the beach in about 8-10m. Another key feature is the wreckage of 2 small boats, laying just off the wall’s western end. They aren’t much in the way of wrecks, but are of interest due to the life they attract, along with the wall.

Entry at Fairlight is off a rock platform at the western end of the beach. The site is diveable in most conditions except a south-easterly wind which can blow things out. After entering the water, swim on the surface about 25m, until you are in water about 4-5m. Drop down and follow one of the sand gullies to the south. When you get to about 6-8m you should encounter the wall. Drop over this and you will now be in about 8m. Best profile is to go to the left (east) and follow the wall along. At the end, turn around and come back, and retrace your steps up the sand gully. Only a few metres along from where you dropped over the wall, if you look to your right (south) you should make out the wrecks, which are laying end to end. They are about 5m from the wall, and should be visible in most conditions.

This site is macro heaven - a muck diver’s dream. Nudis abound here, with regular sightings of most temperate species. This is one of the best nudi spots in Sydney, and on a single dive I have spotted A. varia, C. splendida, H. bennetti, G. atromarginata, C. amoena, P. ianthina, and Jorunna sp. Also worth keeping an eye out for are the feather duster worms - these are some of the biggest of these that I have seen anywhere, with some the size of a tennis ball.

Maximum depth is about 10m so its diveable by beginners and more serious muck divers alike. This is my favourite shore dive on Sydney’s north shore.

Fish Reef

This is a small, deep reef lying in about 28m of water just out of Port Hacking. Roughly circular in shape, it is just big enough to circumnavigate on a no-deco, air dive. Obviously with the use of enriched air, this can be extended easily.

This reef rises only a few metres off the bottom, but attracts a solid amount of fishlife. I’ve regularly seen some of the biggest and friendliest weedy sea dragons at this site, some that are so curious they stop and watch you. Kingfish, tailor, yellowtail, bullseye and a variety of wrasse are common visitors.

Of all the southern Sydney sites, Fish Reef has one of the best ranges of nudibranchs. Aeolid and dorid varieties are common. On one occasion I saw a pair of nudibranchs about the size of a sea cucumber (about 10cm in length). I have no idea what type they were, and have not been able to identify them in books such as that of Neville Coleman.

Like the other southern Sydney sites, Fish Reef is regularly visited by Sea Tamer II, and finishes with a warm cup of tomato soup and some Mars bars.

Gordon’s Bay

Gordon’s Bay is located in the eastern suburb of Clovelly. Also known as Thompsons Bay (or “Thommos”), Gordon’s Bay would have to rank as one of the easiest shore dives in Sydney, and for that reason, is popular with various dive centres and schools as a training site.

To access the site, drive to the end of Clovelly Road. Here you’ll find a car park that is located on a small peninsular. On the northern side of the car park is Clovelly Bay, a sea pool with a beach and easy boardwalks either side. It is a good night dive, but divers cannot use the pool during the day during summer time. On the southern side of the car park is Gordon’s Bay.

The entry to the bay is simple - follow the path down that starts just behind the large white house, and is marked at its start by a rock with a plaque about the bay and the divesite. The path goes all the water to water, and except in low tide, actually continues a few metres into the water. Be careful as you can get some waves as you enter. Get out to waist depth, then don fins and swim out about 50m in a line from the entry point to the obvious green house on the southern side of the bay. Descend here in about 3.5-4m.

At the bottom, you should quickly find a chain, which is a nature trail around the most interesting parts of the site. This will take you past some boulders and a rock wall that drops from 5m to 11m in a couple of steps. Deepest depth of the site is about 13m.

Marine life here is characteristic of Sydney, with mado, bream, morwong, leatherjackets and various wrasse being common. There has been a large blue groper at this site for many years, nicknamed “Bazza”.

An easy dive, best suited to flat inshore seas associated with westerly winds, or moderate seas from the north-northeast. Nearest diving services are Deep 6 Diving in Clovelly, Pro Dive Coogee, Dive Centre Bondi Road or Sydney Dive Academy, Maroubra.

Oak Park

Located in Cronulla, Oak Park is a dive site located off shore of a beach and swimming pool that go by the same name, so its easy to find in most street directories. A popular training ground, its hard to get much deeper than about 12m here, and is a good dive site for all levels of divers.

Entry is from the area of the pool, from one of two spots. Either from the left seaward corner of the pool (over a rock platform), or walking in from the shore on the right hand side. The site is at the meeting point of the Hacking River and Bate Bay, so is fairly protected, but be careful in a south-easterly wind. From either entry, swim south until you are over a sandy area, drop down and swim to the east until you encounter a low wall / rock platform.

The sponge gardens here are quite extensive, although many of the shallower ones have been beaten around by the sheer number of divers who dive the site. The further out you get, the better it can be.

Another good site for nudibranchs, I first encountered the species Tambja verconis here. Most of the usual suspects can be seen.

Bigger fish also abound here, and I have seen big schools of yellow tail, pike and some kingfish, and have seen majestic eagle rays swimming by.

A good second dive to do after diving Shiprock on the high tide.

Shelly Beach

Said to be the only west facing beach on the east coast of Australia, Shelly Beach is perhaps one of the most popular dive training sites in Sydney. Protected from almost any weather, except perhaps a really strong westerly, Shelly Beach is a simple walk-in walk-out type dive with a maximum depth of around 12m.

The site has a sandy bottom, which is rather bland in most places, although if you look carefully you may find some serpent eels, and the occasional octopus under an isolated rock. Rays also make their homes in the sand, so take care of where you kneel. The main feature is the wall which runs along the right hand side of the site as you head out. Follow the wall all the way out to the point where it turns north, and keep following it around. Just off this point is a motorcycle and a few other bits and pieces worth pottering around in.

You get a few port jackson sharks around the place, and at night time this site comes alive with considerably more fishlife than the same site during the day. In fact, this site is perhaps better as one of the easiest and most relaxed night dives you could do. Parking is plentiful, and a lovely parkland makes a nice picnic area.

Shiprock

Located near Dolan’s Bay at Lilli Pilli, Shiprock is a marine reserve with excellent diving for novices through to advanced divers. It is a really easy entry/exit from behind a sheltered rock (that looks like a ship, funnily enough) at the bottom of a track at the end of Shiprock Road.

As Shiprock is located some way up Hacking River, it is extremely tidal, and you can only dive it safely on a slack tide - about 20 minutes either side of high or low tide. Generally, high tide is suggested, as visibility is best at this time (or at least better). Don’t expect too much out of the visibility, it is upstream, and 5m is average, and 10m excellent. You can, however, have a great dive there in low visibility.

From the entry point swim out about 20m east, and drop down their to about 5m depth. Then continue ESE on your compass and in a few kicks you should find a wall that drops down to about 12-14m. Generally turn right and head along the wall.

The key feature of this site is the bubble cave, a small crevice that two divers can surface into at about 12m, and actually talk to each other. Try not to breathe in here - its full of CO2, so inhale from regulator only. Continue along the wall until you reach your turnaround point (gas or time) and then head back, and ascend near where you descended, or closer to shore.

Be careful of boats here - you get a lot of speed boats zipping through, so I strongly recommend ascending on a line, or as close to shore as you can.

The main thing to watch out for here, however, is other divers. As the site can only be dived at certain times, you get a lot of people diving at the same time. The positive side of this is that for a first timer, it is simple to work out entry and descent points ;-) .

Marine life here is wonderful, with some of the nicest and largest ranges of anemones and soft corals found around Sydney. There is also lots of small stuff - angler fish, nudibranchs and sand eels. Shiprock is the only dive site where I have seen the dorid nudibranch Chromodoris daphne (although now I’ve seen the same species at Bare Island), yet I can find this critter here most times. The abundance of small stuff, plus the generally limited visibility, means it is a macro photographer’s and muck diver’s haven. Leave the wide angle lenses at home, and get those extension tubes out.

A great dive site, that adds another option to Sydney diving.