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Gear Configuration for the Recreational Diver
Previous: Being Streamlined
By this time in your diving career, you are probably gaining an understanding of the importance of gear configuration. Whilst this has been a hot topic in technical diving discussions, the principals apply equally in recreational diving.
It concerns me that the VAST majority of recreational divers (up to say 18m depths) don't pay much, if any, attention to their gear configuration. In all my Open Water classes I introduce my students to the importance of gear configuration, and in continuing education I reinforce the topic.
This discussion will focus on the type of diving most recreational divers do - single tank dives to maximum depths around 18m. I'll leave discussions about deeper recreational diving for another time.
This discussion refers also to open water, not overhead environments.
So far in our discussions we've looked at the need for balancing streamlining with redundancy, and now its time to start to explore what level of redundancy is required for the recreational diver. I won't deal with mask, snorkel, fins, booties or other basic stuff, and won't talk about specific brands, just general guidelines.
Gas Supply
To this depth level, air is probably okay, although I still don't use it where I
have a choice. Beyond 18m, EANx is a far better choice (obviously staying within the Maximum Depth or MOD for a particular blend).
A single tank should be appropriate in all no-deco diving situations within 18m of the surface. But what about redundancy? Have an occy and a reliable buddy with an occy, and dive as a team - work with each other and enjoy the dive together. Check each other's gas supply regularly (remember, its your backup), and maintain awareness of your buddy's position throughout the dive. Dive within your limits, and your buddy's limits, dive as a team, and use good quality alternate air source regulators.
Its also important to know your own gas consumption, and to dive with an appropriate cylinder. I am partial to steel 85s and 100s in this range - they carry high capacity, giving a reserve if you need to assist a buddy. Always plan to leave the water with at least 30-40 bar in the tank. This would generally meaning leaving the bottom with at least 70-80 bar.
Buoyancy Control Devices
Realistically speaking, most BCs are fine for the job in this depth range.
Personally I like the following features:
- Tough construction (kevlar or heavy duty dernier)
- Good size pockets
- Simple to use and locate releases
- Adequate dump valves
- Weight integration
- Adequate (but not too many) metal D-rings
Rear inflation is a nice feature too, and if you plan to venture deeper in time, then I suggest getting a rear inflation (tech style) BC.
Personally, my preference in a BCD is for a stainless steel backplate and an appropriate wing. For single tanks, the lift capacity should be no more than around 35 pounds.
Regulators, Gauges and Hoses
The most hoses you should have hanging off your single first stage is 4.
Five is okay if your wearing a drysuit. But less is better.
Have a good quality, well maintained regulator system.
For my thinking, the Hogarthian setup of breathing from the regulator you are going to donate to an out-of-gas (OOG) diver as your primary makes most sense. The backup reg. is kept on a necklace around your neck, and this will be what you switch to after donating your primary. It stands to reason that the primary reg then should be on at least an occy length hose. This is based on the fact that an OOG diver should get the reg that is easiest to find and is known to be performing properly. The one in your mouth satisfies both these criteria.
An alternative that I previously used was to have a combined low pressure inflator and alternate second stage - an Alternate Inflator Regulator (such as the Tusa Duo or Scubapro Air II). This cuts one hose off your setup. And make sure you get it serviced regularly, like you would with your actual regulator.
Regarding gauges, always have them. You must be able to know your tank contents, depth and time throughout a dive. Have them clipped properly to a D-ring on the left side of your BC. A good idea is to have a wrist mounted dive computer / electronic gauge, with only a single contents gauge (SPG) clipped to your side.
You could consider having a wrist mounted, hoseless, gas integrated computer. This has a transmitter connected to the high pressure port of the first stage, and a wrist mounted console with a receiver that tells you cylinder contents along with other information provided by a dive computer throughout the dive.
Regarding hoses, obviously have the appropriate hose for your SPG and inflator. This should be straight forward. The reg you plan to give away in an out of air situation should be on a longer hose. At this level, there is no need for the 2m long hose, unless venturing to the overhead environment, which has a lot of other equipment differences as well. A standard length occy hose will suffice.
If you are using the Hogarthian setup or an Alternate Inflator Regulator, then your primary reg (the one you breathe off) should be on the longer hose.
If you work to the above, you would be well setup and streamlined, carrying no more than 4 hoses, one more if you're using a drysuit.
Exposure Protection
Appropriate exposure protection should always be worn. Wear the garment
that keeps you suitably warm for the environment you're in, whilst allowing you to carry
the least amount of weight to offset the suit's bouyancy. Dress for the likely
bottom temperature, not the surface temperature.
Valves
For the diver who never plans to go into anything beyond recreational diving, the
standard yoke fitting is generally sufficient, and certainly the easiest to get rentals
and fills for. However, there is no question that the DIN fitting, more popular with
technical divers, is a better valve type.
Its not commonly known, but the standard yoke fitting is rated to only 207bar, so if you use higher pressure tanks (steel 100's say filled to 240 or 260 bar), you are actually filling the tank to a pressure higher than the valve is designed for. While this doesn't seem to have caused many problems in practice, it is not a good practice. DIN valves can be rated up to 300bar.
Also, the DIN fitting features a captured o-ring, significantly reducing the possibility of a blown o-ring. DIN is a more secure fitting, meaning less likelihood of unseating the regulator from the valve - an important consideration for cave and wreck divers.
If you think in time that you are going to go into wreck or technical diving, get DIN from day 1, it'll save you a lot of money in the long run. In any case, I suggest buying a DIN regulator with a screw on yoke converter - the regulator can then be used with both DIN and yoke valves, with a 2 second modification.
Cutting Devices
Lets face it, every time we go diving we run a small risk of getting tangled up
in something - often fishing line, but weed, kelp and even navigation lines can leap out
and wrap themselves around the unsuspecting diver.
Every diver should carry at least one cutting device - a dive knife or similar. In terms of the type of implement, I always suggest a small knife or similar with a sharp edge on one side, a cerated edge on the other, a line cutting device, and flat end used for pounding, and a flat tip of the knife for doubled used for turning things (like a screwdriver).
Ideally, the cutting device should be carried on the upper body - best places include hose mounted on the waist strap of a harness, or perhaps the HP hose, on the BCD should straps, or the BCD waist strap.
If you wear a knife on the leg, always wear it on the inside leg. Wearing a knife on the outside of the leg is just asking for it to be caught on something, or tangled itself. But upper body is best.